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Refinishing An Old Dresser -
Part 1
Stripping The Original Finish
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In
This Article:
Furniture stripping paste is brushed on
and the surface is scrubbed. The stripper residue is removed
with a power-washer and the wood is allowed to dry. |
Related Articles:
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Skill Level:
2-3 (Basic to Intermediate)
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Time Taken:
About 8 Hours (Over 2 Days)
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By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor
Start:
I bought this
old dresser from a friend-of-a-friend who needed
to get rid of some furniture.
I paid a
whopping twenty-five bucks for this piece. When
I examined the details of this dresser, I
realized that it was solid wood except for some
plywood on the back and bottom.
Even though I was swamped with home
improvement projects, I envisioned a furniture
refinishing project in my near future. |
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The sellers of this dresser were in
a hurry to move some furniture out of a rental house that
they owned, and I spent a couple of hours helping them. In
return for my efforts they offered to give me some pieces of
furniture. I did accept a nice solid-cherry dining
table with a broken leg, which I knew I could fix. But this
dresser was in decent condition, so I insisted on giving
them a little money for it.
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After I parked this dresser in my garage, I
noticed this sticker inside one of the top
drawers.
I don't know if this dresser would
qualify as a true antique, but it seemed pretty
old. The fact that the sticker states "solid
maple" and "solid cherry" was a pleasant
surprise. |
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I'm not an expert on identifying
species of wood, but the dresser case and the drawer fronts
look like cherry, and the drawer boxes and some internal
parts on the case look like maple.
I realized that I had gotten a pretty good
deal. At the time, I wasn't looking to acquire any more furniture.
It was about a month before I got married for the second time, and I
was facing the prospect of trying to fit my wife's furniture into
the small 1,400 square foot house that I bought 2 years ago. I
already had some furniture. More was on the way. I felt a bit crazy
for bringing this home, but I couldn't pass it up.
It seems that these good deals come when
you're not looking for them.
The dresser
had some strange white spots on the top. I
couldn't tell if these spots were paint, or
something that had damaged the finish.
There
were also some stains that had penetrated into
the wood, and I wasn't sure if they could be
removed. |
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There were a lot of scratches on the top. Since
the top is solid wood, I knew that I could sand
these scratches out.
If the top had been a
veneer, there would be a risk of sanding through
the veneer, which would get ugly. Deep scratches
in veneer would be better treated by filling
them with wood putty. |
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This dresser sat in our garage for
about three months, just taking up valuable space. On Labor
Day weekend I decided to take a break from my other projects
and tackle this refinishing job. The weatherman was
predicting warm and sunny weather, and I prefer to do
furniture stripping outdoors.
The weather turned out a little too
good... the temperature reached the low 90's by mid-day and
there was a steady breeze. That's abnormally warm for
Northern Michigan in early September. It was perfect beach
weather, but I convinced my wife to stay home and work.
There was a flip-side to this perfect beach
weather... the furniture stripper paste kept drying out. In order to
work properly, these chemicals need to stay wet. But I had a
solution.
Stripping Furniture Finish:
We set up a
work table and covered it with a sheet of
plastic, held down with large spring clamps.
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The basic supplies we used for stripping the
finish:
- Furniture stripper
- a one-quart plastic
cup
- an old 2" paint brush
- a scrubbing pad
- a
plastic-bristle brush.
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I set up a
"wash rack" by placing an old piece of white
wire shelving on a pair of sawhorses.
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I also set up a drying rack by laying wire
shelving on another pair of sawhorses. I figured
wire shelving would be best because air could
circulate beneath the drawers.
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Wearing a
pair of chemical-resistant rubber gloves, we
painted the stripper on the outside of the drawer
box.
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To keep the stripper from drying out, we sprayed
the wood with rubbing alcohol. We used an
ordinary garden sprayer that is manually pumped to
pressurize.
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Then we
scrubbed the surfaces with a small plastic-bristle brush.
We also tried using a scrubbing
pad, but it was less effective than the brush.
We found that the softened finish would work its
way deep into the bristles, but the scrubbing
pad's surface would just get covered with gunk.
We periodically cleaned out the brush with a
power washer. The pad wasn't so easy to clean. |
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The CitriStrip Fiasco:
In the pictures above we used a
furniture stripping product that contains nasty
chemicals like methylene chloride.
At first we tried using Citristrip to remove the finish.
While it appeared to be working (because we could see
the changes in the surface), it just wasn't completely
dissolving the finish. Of course it had problems with
drying out, and we re-wetted the stripper by spraying it
with rubbing alcohol, which has always worked in the
past. If we applied Ctristrip to a very small area, such
as one side of a drawer, it was possible to keep the
stripper wet while scrubbing it, and after power washing
the surface would be completely clean.
But stripping one side at a time would take
f-o-r-e-v-e-r. When we tried to apply Citristrip to an
entire drawer box, inside and out, we had to almost
constantly spray alcohol on the stripper while it
sat for 20 to 30 minutes and softened the finish. I
realized that I could use a quart of rubbing alcohol for
each drawer box. And there were eleven
drawers to strip.
So after
fooling around with Citristrip for almost 3 hours and
not even completely stripping two small drawer boxes, I
decided to try the conventional chemical stripper.
I'm not knocking Citristrip. It's a great product. It's
all natural. It's made from orange peels. While they say
it's toxic (apparently orange peels can be poisonous in
high concentrations) it is certainly much less toxic
than methylene chloride and all the petro-chemicals used
in other strippers. And I'm sure it's much less damaging
to the environment.
I've had
great results with Citristrip in the past... but that
involved stripping stained oak trim from a house built
in 1907. I'm sure that trim was coated with
old-fashioned varnish, and this dresser was probably
finished with lacquer. I understand that lacquer
has been used on furniture since the early 20th century,
as furniture manufacturers discovered the productivity
improvements of applying fast-drying lacquer with spray
guns.
I suspect that Citristrip
doesn't dissolve lacquer as rapidly as it dissolves
varnish. Maybe our problems were amplified by the hot
and breezy weather conditions. We solved the problem by
switching to a methylene chloride-based chemical
stripper. I'd prefer to avoid that stuff, but we
couldn't. |
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After the stripper had been allowed to work for
10 to 15 minutes, I power-washed the drawer
boxes.
It's important to be very thorough when washing.
Any spots of stripper that are not removed will
interfere with the drying of the finish, and I
won't know about it until it's too late. |
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To power wash
the inside of the drawer boxes, I held the
drawer up with one hand and blasted it with the
power-washing wand held in my other hand.
This
was kinda awkward, because the power-washer wand
is quite long and I couldn't get my arms far
enough apart. |
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My wife declined the opportunity to
hold the drawers on an angle while I power washed them.
She's smart... she saw how much water got splashed around. I
pretty much got soaked while doing this, but I didn't
mind because it was about 90 degrees outside.
I wanted to power-wash these drawer boxes
from the underside because the water drained better. When I
tried just laying the boxes facing up, they would fill up with wash
waster, and some of the stripper residue would stay behind. It seems
to me that it's important to make sure the water drains off
immediately.
No Power Washer?
Before I bought this little 1200
PSI electric power washer I had stripped some stained
wood trim and used a garden hose to wash off the
stripper. It worked okay, but I had to scrub the wood
with a stiff-bristled brush while washing. Power-washing
is much easier. It might be worth renting or borrowing a
small power washer if you have a large amount of
stripping to do. |
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Warning About Power Washers:
At 1200 PSI, the power washer I
used is the lowest pressure machine I have ever
seen. Be aware that gas-powered power washers often
develop MUCH higher pressures, often 2,000 to
3,000 PSI. While these high-powered machines will do the
job quicker, they can also tear up the wood if
you get the nozzle too close. Also, the high-powered
washers take a lot more effort to hold onto, and you
might find your arms getting tired. My little power
washer that I bought a couple of years ago at Big Lots
had the perfect power level for this job. |
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Stripping The Dresser Case:
We laid a
sheet of plastic on the lawn and set the dresser
on a couple of blocks of wood to keep it off the
ground.
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We applied stripper to the sides with a paint
brush.
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Then we
scrubbed...
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...and power-washed.
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Note that I should have been wearing
safety glasses in the above pictures. (I took them off to
set up the camera, but I forgot to put them back on...
honest!) Eye protection needs to be taken seriously. It's
really easy to get paint stripper splashed in your face. If
you get chemical stripper in your eyes, flush them with
water and seek medical attention. Don't takes chances with
your eyesight.
Lori and I
worked together to apply stripper to the
front...
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...and top.
We found it was really easy to splash
each other with paint stripper, which
irritates the
skin on contact. Be careful when working with
another person... and wear eye protection! |
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Scrubbing The
Top:
We used a floor brush to scrub the
stripper. Being a larger brush, this worked
faster, but it required more effort. |
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After power washing the entire unit, we tipped
it forward to let the water drain. I also set up
a large fan to blow on the dresser, which helped
dry it faster.
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After drying for a couple of hours,
we moved the dresser and drawers into the garage and let
them dry
overnight with a couple of fans blowing on them.
The day after
we stripped the dresser, I moved it into the sun
to dry completely.
I strapped the dresser to a
mover's
dolly to make it easier to move. |
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After drying, there was some white "sludge" on the surfaces.
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This patch of
sludge on the face frame was the worst... but it
came off with some light sanding.
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Read Warnings And Cautions Below
More Info:
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- Electric Power Washer, 1200 PSI
- Old Paint Brushes, 2"
- Scrub Brushes with Plastic Bristles
- Plastic Paint Cups
- Small Garden Sprayer, Hand-Held
- Sawhorses
- Wire Shelving
- Safety Glasses
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Materials Used:
- Chemical Paint Stripper Containing
Methylene Chloride, About 1 Gallon
- Rubbing Alcohol, About 4 Quarts
- Plastic Sheets
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Warnings And Cautions:
Working with chemical paint
stripper, or even natural-based stripper products, can
pose some hazards.
1) Paint
stripping chemicals must be kept away from your skin. If
you get stripper or the residue on your skin, wash it
off immediately. Wear eye protection.
2) Follow the stripper manufacturers directions.
3) Use with LOTS of ventilation. Work outdoors if
possible, or at least open several windows and use fans
to move fresh air into one window and another to push
stale air out another window. Avoid breathing the fumes
from chemical paint stripper,
this website includes Methylene Chloride in a list
of substances "Reasonably anticipated to be human
carcinogens". However... methylene chloride appears
to be ranked as
less carcinogenic than alcoholic beverages and wood
dust, which they list as "known carcinogens". Hmmm.
Maybe I shouldn't have drank all that beer while I
sanded the wood in Part 2 of this project. |
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